Ticino, four mountain passes, and four paws...
Four days with Mabel between Lake Maggiore, the Verzasca Valley, and the great Swiss Alpine passes
Mabel Is Ready to Go
The journey actually begins with this view from the trunk.
Mabel is sitting in her crate, the car is packed, and we’re ready for four days in Ticino. Ascona is our destination. But instead of simply driving through the Gotthard Tunnel, we want to make the trip there an adventure in itself.
We’ll head south via Grimsel and Nufenen.
What no one suspects at this point: We’ll revisit some of these places just a few days later—in a completely different world.
And Mabel? She’s simply ready to go.
Across the Alps - or: Where, exactly, is the South?
The Grimsel gives us a rather unwelcoming reception. 8 degrees. Rain. A cool wind. Clouds and fog hang so low that we can barely see anything of the majestic landscape.
And yet it’s worth the stop. For the first time, I see the old and new dams side by side. Or at least I can make them out. The weather doesn’t allow for much more than that. Meanwhile, Mabel seems to be seriously doubting our vacation plans. A short walk, a few pictures—and back into the warm car pretty quickly.
We continue on toward the Nufenen Pass.
A first for Mabel: she’s never been this high in her life.
But the weather isn’t getting any better. On the contrary.
Even colder. Even more unpleasant. And the view consists mainly of gray.
Mabel looks out of her crate as if to ask:
“Dani, didn’t you tell us something about Ticino, palm trees, and vacations?”
Somewhere beyond these mountains, the south is indeed waiting for us.
And then: Ascona.
We leave the high mountains behind us, and eventually the landscape changes.
Lake Maggiore. Palm trees. Milder temperatures.
Finally, Ticino.
We’ve arrived.
Buongiorno Ascona
The next morning, it becomes clear why we love coming here so much.
Our first walk takes us down to the lake early in the morning with Mabel. Ascona is just slowly waking up. There are hardly any people out yet. The piazza lies quiet, and Lake Maggiore is almost just as still.
After yesterday’s gray skies, this morning feels like a whole new journey. And, of course, in front of the big red heart, we take our first real “Ticino portrait” of Mabel. ❤️
Later, we set out on a hike around the golf course.
And it’s precisely this route that shows just how diverse Ascona can be: palm trees, the harbor, narrow paths, lush greenery, and, time and again, Lake Maggiore.
Mabel discovers the water — and by now, at the very latest, it’s clear: she’s arrived in Ticino.
She splashes in the lake, runs across the meadows, watches boats and birds, and every now and then just lies down in the grass.
Her nose is probably just as busy this morning as my camera is.
It’s these unspectacular moments that I especially love.
No sights. No set itinerary.
Just being out and about together.
And somewhere along this walk, one of my favorite photos from this trip is taken.
A portrait of Mabel.
That alert yet calm gaze, looking straight into my camera.
Sometimes I take a picture of her—and only realize later that the photo actually says much more about my relationship with her than about her herself.
Sonogno – at the very end of the Verzasca Valley
The next day, we drive to the Verzasca Valley.
The further we drive in, the narrower the valley becomes, and the wilder the landscape.
Sonogno lies at the very end.
Stone houses, narrow alleys, small bridges, forests, and mountains—a Ticino village with an atmosphere all its own.
For Mabel, it’s a huge adventure playground.
First, though, we check out the yellow PostBus vehicles. Of course, we have to send the photo to Rajesh, our very own “Mr. PostBus.” If anyone knows the PostBus routes, it’s him.
Then we explore the village on foot.
Mabel walks curiously ahead of us—down narrow paths, past the old houses, over bridges, and out into nature.
And suddenly, we come to a stop.
Goats. Mabel sees the goats. The goats see Mabel.
Mabel looks back at the goats. And apparently decides:
“These creatures give me the creeps.” 😂
Usually, her curiosity gets the better of her. This time, though, she’d rather keep her distance. The horns seem to make her a little uneasy. After all, you don’t have to be friends with everyone. We continue on through Sonogno and enjoy this wonderful place.
It’s one of those Ticino experiences where not much needs to happen.
The place itself is enough.
Ascona, once again
Before we head home, Ascona belongs to Mabel one last time.
One last walk.
At the yacht club, she’s standing in front of a palm tree, with the boats behind her, and looks as if she’s long since embraced the Ticino “dolce vita” as her new way of life. 🌴🐾
Of course, this is the perfect shot. Afterward, she’s drawn back down to Lake Maggiore once more. Paws in the water. Splashing around. Sniffing about. Just enjoying the lake one last time.
And to top it all off, the water feature awaits her in the piazza. Of course, Mabel has to investigate where this water is suddenly coming from—and, above all, why it keeps disappearing. We watch her and can’t help but laugh.
Perhaps that’s exactly one of the most beautiful experiences of these days: Suddenly rediscovering a familiar place—through the eyes of a young dog.
Then it’s time to say goodbye.
Arrivederci, Ascona. ❤️ Torneremo presto!
The journey home - but certainly not just a simple trip home
Actually, the story could end right here. Leave Ticino. Head home. But our return trip turns out to be one of the best days of the entire trip. And it begins with more firsts for Mabel.
Gotthard – mountain air and cheese
Mabel's first time on the Gotthard Pass.
Of course, the first thing to do is explore the area. Run through the meadows, breathe in the mountain air, and see what there is to discover up here.
Meanwhile, I’m indulging in an important Gotthard tradition: a bratwurst. 🌭
Of course, Mabel doesn’t go away empty-handed either. The nice saleswoman apparently can’t resist her gaze and gives her a little bit of cheese. 🧀🐶
This should definitely ensure that she has fond memories of the Gotthard.
Something for everyone: mountain scenery for us, cheese for Mabel. On we go.
Furka – what a world
The next first. Mabel’s first time on the Furka Pass.
And what a contrast to our trip there! Blue skies. Sunshine. Crisp mountain air. A view so breathtaking that you really don’t want to keep driving. The landscape is awe-inspiring.
Mabel runs through this alpine world, stops, looks around—and, of course, gets her picture taken.
Over and over again. Our little Border Collie girl against this vast mountain backdrop.
I love pictures like these. Not just because they're beautiful, but because I already know today that they'll take me right back to this exact moment later on.
Us up here. On the Furka.
And suddenly, a steam train
After the Furka Pass, we continue on our way.
Actually, I think the next big highlight will probably be the Grimsel Pass. But then something happens that we didn't expect at all: the Furka Steam Train! 🚂
In the midst of this majestic mountain landscape, an old steam locomotive suddenly appears. Black smoke. White steam. The thumping of the engine. For a brief moment, it feels as if we’ve traveled back a few decades. It’s only just pulled out of the Gletsch station, but that’s enough...
We’re driving down from the Furka Pass. We stop at the curve near Muttbach: park the car. Grab the camera. Run up the hill to the tracks. 📷😂
Just in the nick of time.
The steam train is rolling through the countryside, and I can hardly believe my luck. These are the moments you can’t plan for on any trip. You’re just in the right place at the right time. And maybe that’s exactly why encounters like this stay with you for so long.
Mabel probably sees the whole thing a bit more matter-of-factly. That big, black, hissing thing can keep its distance, for all she cares. 😂🐾
Back at the Grimsel Pass
And then the circle of our journey slowly closes.
Grimsel Pass.
Just a few days ago, we were standing right here. Except back then: 8 degrees. Rain. Wind. Fog.
Today: Sun. Blue sky. And finally, a clear view.
We stop at Totesee.
On Wednesday, it was hidden somewhere behind a gray wall. Today, it lies right in front of us.
Finally, I can see what was actually hidden up here.
Of course, Mabel has to pose once more against this backdrop.
Only one thing has also changed completely: the crowds. Motorcycles. Bikers. Cars. Porsches. It’s bustling everywhere. Phew!
Apparently, the weather didn’t just lure us back to the Grimsel.
We continue on toward the hospice.
Now I can see the Grimsel landscape
At the Grimsel Hospice, something happens that I’d actually been looking forward to ever since the trip there.
Now I finally see it.
The whole Grimsel landscape.
The reservoir.
The cliffs.
The water.
And above all: the old and new dams side by side. What a sight.
On the way here, I could barely make out these massive structures through the fog and rain.
Today they lie right before us. This combination of wild high-alpine landscape and massive engineering structures fascinates me. Here, humans are transforming the landscape on a massive scale—and yet, taken together, it all looks incredibly impressive.
I stand there, looking and taking pictures.
Mabel? She’s interested in something else entirely right now. What’s that smell coming from among these flowers? 😂🐾
Four days that feel like so much more
Ascona.
Lake Maggiore.
Sonogno.
Verzasca Valley.
Grimsel.
Nufenen.
Gotthard.
Furka.
A steam train.
Rain, fog, and 8 degrees on the way there.
Sun, crisp mountain air, and an almost kitschy blue sky on the way back.
And right in the middle of it all, time and again: Mabel.
It was only four days.
And yet, looking through the photos, it feels like a much longer trip.
Maybe because this time we didn’t just travel from A to B.
The paths in between were part of the journey. And maybe also because Mabel changes so much.
A lake suddenly becomes a place to splash around. A water feature in the piazza turns into an attraction. Goats become highly suspicious creatures. A piece of cheese on the Gotthard becomes a little highlight of the vacation. And a mountain pass isn’t just a viewpoint—it’s a new place she’s discovering for the first time.
Through her, we, too, experience many things anew.
And that’s exactly why these four days leave us with more than just beautiful photos.
They leave us with little stories. Memories. Shared moments.
And in the end, maybe that’s exactly why I love taking photos so much:
So that a beautiful moment can someday become a memory I can return to.